About sweetbreads

Veal sweetbreads are those most favored.

Sweetbreads are highly perishable and should be prepared for use as soon as purchased.

First, soak them at least 1 hour in a large quantity of cold water to release any blood. You may change the water several times during this period.

Next, they must be blanched. This is done by putting them into cold acidulated water (1 quart water, add 1 tablespoon vinegar) to cover. Bring them slowly to a boil and simmer uncovered from 2 to 5 minutes depending on their size.

Drain. Firm them by plunging them at once into cold water. When they have cooled, drain again and trim them by removing cartilage, tubes, connective tissue and tougher membrane.

Weight them refrigerated for several hours if you plan using them whole.

If you are not using them in one piece, break them into smaller sections with your hands, being careful not to disturb the very fine membrane that surrounds the smaller units. Allow 1 pair for 2 servings.

After these preliminary processes, to which all sweetbreads must be subjected, you may poach, braise, broil or sauce them.

BON APPÉTIT

Bordelaise sauce

For sweetbreads, chops, steaks, grilled meats.

Cook together in a saucepan
- ½ cup dry red wine
- 4 or 5 crushed black peppercorn
Until reduced to ¾.

Then add
- 1 cup brown sauce or espagnole sauce
Simmer for 15 minutes

Add just before serving
- ¼ cup diced beef marrow, poached for a few minutes and drained
- ½ teaspoon chopped parsley

BON APPETIT

Sauce chasseur or hunter's sauce

About 2 cups
Sauté gently until very tender
- 2 tablespoons minced french shallots
- 2 tablespoons butter

Stir in and sauté gently for about 2 minutes
- 1 cup sliced mushrooms

Add
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 2 tablespoons brandy
Simmer until reduced by half

Add
- ½ cup tomato sauce or purée
- 1 cup sauce espagnole or brown sauce
Cook for 5 minutes

Correct the seasoning and add
- 1 teaspoon chopped parsley

BON APPETIT

Veal brown stock and sauce espagnole

The juices made and saved from meat and vegetable cookery are so important that in France they are called bases or "fonds".

Cut in pieces and brown in a 350F oven
- 6 pounds veal marrow bones

Place them in a large stock pot with
- 4 quarts water
- 8 black peppercorns
- 6 whole cloves
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 teaspoon thyme
- 3 sprigs parsley
- 1 large diced carrot
- 3 diced stalks celery
- 1 cup fresh tomatoes, chopped
- 1 medium diced onion

 Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, for 3 hours or until reduced by half.
Strain stock, cool uncovered and refrigerate.

Sauce espagnole (Brown sauce)

This is one of the "sauces mères" of the french cuisine, the basis for many other sauces and dishes.

Melt in a heavy sauce pan
- ½ cup beef or veal drippings

Add
- 1 cup mirepoix (Diced carrot, onion and celery mixed together)

When this begins to brown, add
- ½ cup flour
and stir until the flour is a good brown.

Then add
- 10 black peppercorns
- 2 cups tomato puree
- ½ cup coarsely chopped parsley
stir and mix well.

Then add
8 cups veal brown stock

Simmer on the stove for about 2 hours or until reduced by half.
Stir occasionally and skim off the fat as it rises to the top.
Strain the sauce and stir occasionally as it cools to prevent a skin forming.

The making of a good espagnole is a mark of an accomplished saucier.

BON APPETIT

Gingered chicken noodles

A blend of ginger, spices and coconut milk flavours this delicious supper dish, which is made in minutes.

Serves 4
- 350 gr/ 12 oz boneless, skinless chicken breasts
- 225 gr/ 8 oz courgettes (zuchinis)
- 275 gr/ 10 oz aubergines (eggplants)
- 30 ml/ 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 5 cm/ 2 in. piece fresh root ginger, peeled and finely chopped
- 6 spring onions, sliced
- 10 ml/ 2 teaspoons Thaï green curry paste
- 400 ml/ 14 fl oz coconut milk
- 475 ml/ 16 fl oz chicken stock
- 115 gr/ 4 oz medium egg noodles
- 45 ml/ 3 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
- 15 ml/ 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Chopped fresh coriander, for garnish

Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces.
Halve the zuchinis lengthways and roughly chop them.
Cut the eggplants into similarly sized pieces.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the chicken until golden, remove with a slotted spoon and drain.
Add a little more oil, if necessary, and stir-fry the ginger and spring onions for 3 minutes.
Add the zuchinis and cook for 2-3 minutes, or until beginning to turn golden.
Stir in the curry paste and cook for 1 minute.
Add the coconut milk, stock, eggplants and chicken and simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the noodles and cook until the chicken is cooked and the noodles is tender, about 5 minutes.
Stir in coriander and lemon juice and adjust the seasoning.
Serve garnished with chopped fresh coriander.

BON APPETIT

Spiced bread pudding with cranberry sauce

Nutmeg is a warm, aromatic spice and is particularly suited to old-fashioned puddings.

Serve 6-8
- 2 oz/ 50 gr butter, melted
- 3 cups/ 750 ml milk
- 3 eggs
- 3½ oz./ 90 gr sugar
- 1 teaspoon/ 5 ml vanilla
- 2 teaspoons/ 10 ml cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon/ 2.5 ml nutmeg
- 14 oz./ 400 gr cubed bread cut from a day-old french loaf
- 2 oz./ 50 gr chopped walnut
- 3 oz./ 75 gr sultanas raisins

For the cranberry sauce
- 12 oz./ 350 gr cranberries, fresh or frozen
- Finely grated peel and juice of 1 large orange
- 1 oz./ 25 gr sugar

Brush the butter generously into the bottom and sides of a medium-sized ovenproof dish.
Pour remaining butter into the milk.
Beat the eggs until light and frothy, then beat in the sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and nutmeg.
Stir in the milk and mix well.

Arrange the bread cubes in the prepared dish, scattering the walnuts and sultanas over the top.

Pour the custard over the bread, coating each piece thoroughly.
Leave to stand 45 minutes.

Bake the pudding in the oven 350F for 45 minutes.

Cranberry sauce

Put the berries in a sauce pan with the orange peel and juice and sugar.
Stir over low heat until the sugar dissolve, then cook until the berries pop and the mixture thickens and becomes syrupy.

Serve the sauce hot or cold.

BON APPETIT

Nachos with chili beef

Nachos are a favorite Mexican snack. Served here with spicy beef and topped with cheese, they make a satisfying , quick meal.

Serves 4
- 8 oz. minced beef   225 gr.
- 2 red chilies, seeded and chopped
- 3 spring onions, chopped
- 6 oz. nachos   175 gr.
- 1¼ cups sour cream   300 ml
- 2 oz. cheddar cheese, grated   50 gr.
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Dry-fry the minced beef and chilies in a large pan for 10 minutes, stiring all the time.
Add the spring onions, season and cook for a further 5 minutes.
Arrange the nachos in 4 individual flameproof dishes.
Preheat the grill.
Spoon on the beef mixture and top with sour cream and grated cheese.
Grill under a medium grill for 5 minutes.

BON APPETIT